Ormaie

Meticulously crafted from the juice to bottle top, new French perfume brand Ormaie has roots in art and nature

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Family-run French scent label Ormaie has all the markings of a key perfume player, with a collection of seven fragrances made solely from natural ingredients.

Firstly, there is the beautiful blend of high quality, non-synthetic ingredients that sing through each perfume. For example, masculine ‘Le Passant’ is a sensual lavender and ambrette that reminds Ormaie co-founder Baptiste Bouygues of his father. ‘Le passant means the man passing by,’ explains Bouygues, who started Ormaie with his mother Marie-Lise Jonak in late 2018. ‘My father used to wear a beautiful lavender perfume, so it was important for me that Ormaie would have a chic lavender.’ Jonak, who has always worked in perfumes, favours the rose and sandalwood-based ‘Yvonne’, so-named after her mother who loved classic feminine perfumes. Also in the collection, ‘Les Brumes’ is a burst of fresh citrus with notes of jasmine and cedar, ‘Papier Carbone’ has essences of bergamot, vetiver and sage, and ‘28°’ is designed for hot summer nights with heady scents of mandarin, tuberose and vanilla. ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’ is an exotic fragrance featuring notes of rum, iris and vanilla while incense, sandalwood and vetiver make ‘Toï Toï Toï’ perfect for cooler spring and autumn evenings.

ABOVE: Ormaie’s sculptural eau de parfum collection, from €190 for 100ml, with geometric wooden tops inspired by modernist art
ABOVE RIGHT: Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues
BELOW FROM LEFT: Masculine scent ‘Le Passant’ and feminine ‘Yvonne’

Beyond the fragrance, it’s the design of the bottles that delivers on all cylinders from the elegant typography to the 12-sided glass vessels and geometric hand-carved wooden tops. Collaborating with Parisian creative director Jade Lombard, Bouygues’ interest in midcentury design was key to shaping the look. ‘We both love art and design,’ he says. ‘I love the sculptor Brancusi, for example. Jade loves the graphics of Jean-Paul Goude. We really wanted the bottles to be something that people could display in their living room or an atelier.’

The duo also wanted to combine great craftsmanship with natural materials. ‘The organic feel of the wood was important for us,’ says Bouygues. The caps are made from beech wood sourced from renewable forests in France. The faceted glass bottle comes from one of the finest French glassmakers and the luxe label is hot-stamped in Paris by heritage Heidelberg machines. Boxes and labels are produced by renowned fine-art print shop Imprimerie du Marais.

BELOW FROM LEFT: ‘Les Brumes’, ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’, ‘Papier Carbone’, ‘28°’ and ‘Toï Toï Toï’ eau de parfums. from €190 each for 100ml

It all adds up to an elegant, organic and wonderfully crafted perfume – that looks as nice on your dressing table as it smells on your wrist.
ormaie.paris
Ormaie fragrances are available directly from the website in Europe, €190 each for 100ml; elsewhere in the world, you’ll be directed to online stockist Barney’s, US$270 for 100ml

Portrait of Baptiste Bouygues: Vincent Desailly

Guerlain – 'L'Essentiel' + 'Météorites x Bernardaud'

French beauty house Guerlain is launching ultra-covetable makeup with stellar new packaging for 2019. Futuristic and glamorous, it’s a world where sharp design and must-have products collide

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

To have and to hold. Half of the allure of a fabulous, well-performing beauty product is not in the juice, the powder or the cream but in the craveability of the packaging. That smooth, contoured gold that fits perfectly in the hand, that Parisian script font, that too-pretty-to-use embossed lipstick – it all adds up to prime position on your dressing table. 

Guerlain knows this. Delivering glamour on every front, the Spring 2019 collection by the French beauty brand is divine. Take for instance the new ’L’Essentiel’ foundation. Yes, it’s made with 97% naturally-derived ingredients that promise an all-day natural glow, but what seals the deal is the curvy, cute, asymmetric bottle by designer Mathieu Lehanneur which features a golden globe precariously balanced on top. All of this is lovely and that’s before we even start applying. 

ABOVE: Multi-coloured ‘Météorites x Bernardaud’ face powder pearls by Guerlain come in a futuristic new limited edition white porcelain sphere
RIGHT: Guerlain’s ‘L’Essentiel’ foundation flaunts a curvy, gold-topped bottle

For anyone with a thing for brushes the swish ’L’Essentiel’ retractable foundation brush, also by French talent Lehanneur, is super-ergonomic and a pleasure to use. Designed especially for the new foundation, the bristles are treated with natural bamboo charcoal to remain clean and fresh after use. We want the foundation. We really want the brush. 

ABOVE: Guerlain’s ergonomic ‘L’Essentiel’ retractable foundation brush is a pleasure to use

Guerlain’s legendary ’Météorites’ powder pearls have also been given a galactic new look for 2019. Creative director Olivier Échaudemaison has collaborated with Limoges porcelain house Bernardaud to encase these cult violet-scented, face-powder pearls in a white porcelain sphere. Embossed with star-crossed constellations, it’s a perfect example of how to do luxurious beauty packaging. To infinity and beyond… 
www.guerlain.com

L’Essentiel Natural Glow Foundation’, £44 for 30ml, is available from selected retailers including Selfridges or online at guerlain.com. Limited edition ‘Météorites x Bernardaud Powder Pearls’, £150, available exclusively from Harrods

Byredo – 'Unnamed'

Created in 2016 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Swedish fragrance house Byredo, the limited edition ‘Unnamed’ perfume is back. Enjoy it while you can…

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

The paradigms of perfume are shifting. It’s less cool to buy into a campaign image. It’s cooler to buy into niche. It’s extra cool to buy into a perfume when you don’t even know its smell. Or at least you do, but you have to identify it for yourself.

Always ahead of the curve, Swedish cult brand Byredo has relaunched its limited edition fragrance ‘Unnamed’. Back by popular demand, the perfume is literally unnamed – the point being to create olfactory associations of your own. Scent is subjective, after all, so this allows for your own thoughtful interpretations to flex their might. Minus ingredient cues, minus advertising, simply how does it make you feel?

Clever to the core, Byredo founder and creative director Ben Gorham has left the white label of ‘Unnamed’ blank, so you can call it whatever you like. The scent comes with a set of chic black transfers, including the letters of the alphabet, numbers, punctuation marks, symbols and signs, so you can add your own monogrammed title or just handwrite a name in the space. This is hyper-personalisation, courageous, creative and open to ideas. 

‘The names of the Byredo fragrances often describe the origin of an idea, a thought that leads to a brief presented to the perfumer,’ explains Gorham. ‘With fragrance being completely subjective these names spark the imagination of the perfumer and finally the customer. They each experience the fragrance even before they smell the ingredients in the bottle. We still find it fascinating that people interpret our fragrances in so many ways.’

Gorham continues: ‘To celebrate Byredo’s 10-year anniversary we created an unnamed fragrance that allows our customers to choose a name meaningful to them, and customise the label of their bottle. This is our way of celebrating the notion and uniqueness of smell and an opportunity to thank our partners, retailers and staff as well as the loyal customers who have supported and grown Byredo to what it is today.’

For people interested in the different messages it is possible to get across through perfume, and the effect it has on how we live and think, this concept is for you. For me, this fragrance is all violets and soft suede. I just need to work on the name…
byredo.co.uk

‘Unnamed’ eau de parfum re-edition, £160 for 100ml, is available now from select retailers and byredo.co.uk

Aman Skincare

For a beauty encounter of a holistic kind, draw your palms together in your heart space for Aman Skincare – a new skincare and body line from luxury travel group Aman

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Aman is renowned for impeccably designed resorts all over the world, so it’s perhaps surprising that the luxury hotel group hasn’t made a foray into a spa collection before. Now, though, you can enjoy a little Aman magic at home thanks to the launch of new holistic range Aman Skincare – while upping your bathroom shelfie ante with the sake bottle-inspired designs by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma

Recently renowned for the cliff-like V&A Dundee museum building in Scotland, Kengo’s intention with this beauty brief was to capture the essence of Aman in physical form. The curves of the handsomely shaped bottles fit beautifully in the hand and it’s a sensorial experience – from the smoothness of touch to the appearance of the natural wood grain – and, of course, the sublime scents and star performance of the unisex products inside.

Categorised into three skincare ‘pathways’ – Grounding, Nourishing and Purifying – the sustainable collection takes its cue from nature and ancient wellness traditions, with ingredients influenced by the various Aman resort destinations.

DF AMAN.jpg

Aman Skincare features 30 all-natural products for the face, body and bath, with evocative names such as ‘Jade Mask Concentrate’ and ‘Sacred Heart Balm’, the latter a mood-boosting, antioxidant-rich balm combining hydrating murumuru seed, shea and cupuaçu butters with uplifting tuberose, frangipani and vanilla oils. It’s all extremely transportative – and with prices starting at £40, nicely aspirational too. 
aman.com kkaa.co.jp

All About The Base

From dreamy perfume oils by Hermès to Aesop’s heavyweight brass oil burner that scents your home, oil-based scents should be your next fragrance obsession…

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

There’s something properly luxurious about scent that is carried not by alcohol but by oil. The silkiness of the texture and how it melts into the skin are so much more tangible than a traditional spritz application – and all the more captivating for it. It’s the bohemian mood that it puts us in. From a beauty perspective, we have been living in the age of oil for some time, but now perfume oils are also catching on as a home fragrance. Here is our pick of scented oils to bring stylish seduction to your skin or space.

Hermès ‘Hermessence’
We start with Swiss-Italian perfumer Christine Nagel, the resident nose at French luxury label Hermès since 2016, who has introduced perfume oils to the house for the very first time as part of the latest additions to the ‘Hermessence’ range. Of her five-strong Orient-inspired and layerable collection, there are two totally dreamy oil-based scents: ‘Cardamusc’ and ‘Musc Pallida’. The first is laced with fresh but spicy cardamom, the other with sensual iris. ‘I wanted to return to the origins of perfumery and immerse myself in its history,’ says Nagel of the liquid gold creations that slowly pour from similarly molten, amber glass bottles.
hermes.com 

Hermès ‘Musc Pallida’ and ‘Cardamusc’ essence de parfum, £275 each for 20ml


Aesop
Recognised for its beautiful stores, Australian skincare brand Aesop has now introduced some interiors magic to the collection. Its first Aesop Home piece, the sculptural ‘Brass Oil Burner’ was designed by Sydney-based Studio Henry Wilson, who was behind the decor of a couple of Aesop’s stores (Balmain and Crows Nest in Sydney), as well as a 2017 exhibition at Milan’s Brera showroom. Formed with an ancient wax-mould technique used to cast its solid brass shape, this weighty, one-kilogram vessel teams Aesop’s streamlined design aesthetic with functionality to disperse tailor-made essential oils. A cradle for the oil, this glowing chunk of metal was chosen not only for its looks but also for its superior heat transfer properties, tactility and warm affiliation with candle light. Just add five to 10 drops of your preferred oil blend to the oil well – choose between floral citrus ‘Anouk’, spicy citrus ‘Catherine’, minty ‘Isabelle’ or woody citrus ‘Béatrice’ – alongside a standard tea light. It doesn’t get any simpler or more appealing.
aesop.com  henrywilson.com.au

‘Brass Oil Burner’, £120; ‘Béatrice’ oil burner blend, £25 for 25ml


Lumira
Blending wanderlust-inspired concoctions, Australian fragrance and candle brand Lumira specialises in olfactory escapism with each scent a tribute to a global adventure. Founded by Sydneysider Almira Armstrong in 2013, the label follows a lifelong love of fragrance. Her tempting range of five perfume oils includes a Persian rose-scented roll-on, which combines top notes of bergamot with a dark amber base. We like. 
atelierlumira.com

Lumira ‘Persian Rose’ perfume oil, shown alongside ‘Cuban Tobacco’ and ‘Arabian Oud’ perfume oils, £39 each for 10ml


Joya
Expanding into perfume oils from candles, Frederick Bouchardy of New York label Joya loves the intimate, bespoke quality of an oil-based fragrance that changes significantly according to the wearer’s body chemistry. Handmade and poured in the Brooklyn studio, Joya’s essential oil blends come in travel roll-ons – but from a design point of view, we’re most excited about the slip cast porcelain bottles made by US ceramic artist Sarah Cihat. Did anyone mention the 22-carat gold-dipped wands? A very nice finishing touch.
joyastudio.com

Black ‘Composition No. 6’, white ‘Composition No. 1’ and dark green ‘Foxglove’ perfumes, £100 each for 75ml