Ormaie

Meticulously crafted from the juice to bottle top, new French perfume brand Ormaie has roots in art and nature

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Family-run French scent label Ormaie has all the markings of a key perfume player, with a collection of seven fragrances made solely from natural ingredients.

Firstly, there is the beautiful blend of high quality, non-synthetic ingredients that sing through each perfume. For example, masculine ‘Le Passant’ is a sensual lavender and ambrette that reminds Ormaie co-founder Baptiste Bouygues of his father. ‘Le passant means the man passing by,’ explains Bouygues, who started Ormaie with his mother Marie-Lise Jonak in late 2018. ‘My father used to wear a beautiful lavender perfume, so it was important for me that Ormaie would have a chic lavender.’ Jonak, who has always worked in perfumes, favours the rose and sandalwood-based ‘Yvonne’, so-named after her mother who loved classic feminine perfumes. Also in the collection, ‘Les Brumes’ is a burst of fresh citrus with notes of jasmine and cedar, ‘Papier Carbone’ has essences of bergamot, vetiver and sage, and ‘28°’ is designed for hot summer nights with heady scents of mandarin, tuberose and vanilla. ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’ is an exotic fragrance featuring notes of rum, iris and vanilla while incense, sandalwood and vetiver make ‘Toï Toï Toï’ perfect for cooler spring and autumn evenings.

ABOVE: Ormaie’s sculptural eau de parfum collection, from €190 for 100ml, with geometric wooden tops inspired by modernist art
ABOVE RIGHT: Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues
BELOW FROM LEFT: Masculine scent ‘Le Passant’ and feminine ‘Yvonne’

Beyond the fragrance, it’s the design of the bottles that delivers on all cylinders from the elegant typography to the 12-sided glass vessels and geometric hand-carved wooden tops. Collaborating with Parisian creative director Jade Lombard, Bouygues’ interest in midcentury design was key to shaping the look. ‘We both love art and design,’ he says. ‘I love the sculptor Brancusi, for example. Jade loves the graphics of Jean-Paul Goude. We really wanted the bottles to be something that people could display in their living room or an atelier.’

The duo also wanted to combine great craftsmanship with natural materials. ‘The organic feel of the wood was important for us,’ says Bouygues. The caps are made from beech wood sourced from renewable forests in France. The faceted glass bottle comes from one of the finest French glassmakers and the luxe label is hot-stamped in Paris by heritage Heidelberg machines. Boxes and labels are produced by renowned fine-art print shop Imprimerie du Marais.

BELOW FROM LEFT: ‘Les Brumes’, ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’, ‘Papier Carbone’, ‘28°’ and ‘Toï Toï Toï’ eau de parfums. from €190 each for 100ml

It all adds up to an elegant, organic and wonderfully crafted perfume – that looks as nice on your dressing table as it smells on your wrist.
ormaie.paris
Ormaie fragrances are available directly from the website in Europe, €190 each for 100ml; elsewhere in the world, you’ll be directed to online stockist Barney’s, US$270 for 100ml

Portrait of Baptiste Bouygues: Vincent Desailly

Guerlain – 'L'Essentiel' + 'Météorites x Bernardaud'

French beauty house Guerlain is launching ultra-covetable makeup with stellar new packaging for 2019. Futuristic and glamorous, it’s a world where sharp design and must-have products collide

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

To have and to hold. Half of the allure of a fabulous, well-performing beauty product is not in the juice, the powder or the cream but in the craveability of the packaging. That smooth, contoured gold that fits perfectly in the hand, that Parisian script font, that too-pretty-to-use embossed lipstick – it all adds up to prime position on your dressing table. 

Guerlain knows this. Delivering glamour on every front, the Spring 2019 collection by the French beauty brand is divine. Take for instance the new ’L’Essentiel’ foundation. Yes, it’s made with 97% naturally-derived ingredients that promise an all-day natural glow, but what seals the deal is the curvy, cute, asymmetric bottle by designer Mathieu Lehanneur which features a golden globe precariously balanced on top. All of this is lovely and that’s before we even start applying. 

ABOVE: Multi-coloured ‘Météorites x Bernardaud’ face powder pearls by Guerlain come in a futuristic new limited edition white porcelain sphere
RIGHT: Guerlain’s ‘L’Essentiel’ foundation flaunts a curvy, gold-topped bottle

For anyone with a thing for brushes the swish ’L’Essentiel’ retractable foundation brush, also by French talent Lehanneur, is super-ergonomic and a pleasure to use. Designed especially for the new foundation, the bristles are treated with natural bamboo charcoal to remain clean and fresh after use. We want the foundation. We really want the brush. 

ABOVE: Guerlain’s ergonomic ‘L’Essentiel’ retractable foundation brush is a pleasure to use

Guerlain’s legendary ’Météorites’ powder pearls have also been given a galactic new look for 2019. Creative director Olivier Échaudemaison has collaborated with Limoges porcelain house Bernardaud to encase these cult violet-scented, face-powder pearls in a white porcelain sphere. Embossed with star-crossed constellations, it’s a perfect example of how to do luxurious beauty packaging. To infinity and beyond… 
www.guerlain.com

L’Essentiel Natural Glow Foundation’, £44 for 30ml, is available from selected retailers including Selfridges or online at guerlain.com. Limited edition ‘Météorites x Bernardaud Powder Pearls’, £150, available exclusively from Harrods

Frédéric Malle x Alber Elbaz

A new collaboration between French fragrance house Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle and Israeli fashion designer Alber Elbaz has resulted in 'Superstitious'. Black, gold and sexy as hell...

BY AMY BRADFORD

ABOVE FROM LEFT:  Alber Elbaz and Frédéric Malle

ABOVE FROM LEFT: Alber Elbaz and Frédéric Malle

When they hear the words ‘grand aldehydic floral’, perfume connoisseurs usually think of one scent: 'Chanel No5'. 'Superstitious' is nothing like 'Chanel No5', but it does belong to the same fragrance family. Intriguingly, it also shares something else in common with Ernest Beaux’s 1921 masterpiece: it was composed in the old-fashioned way, by a master perfumer working alone, and presented almost complete to the fashion designer for whom it was intended to await his final flourish.

The fashion designer in question is Alber Elbaz, known for helming iconic French brands Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin, and the perfumer is the great Dominique Ropion. Fragrance impresario Frédéric Malle has long admired the former, and long worked with the latter. Seeking a way to collaborate with Elbaz on a new scent, Malle decided to show him Ropion’s creation – and it was love at first sniff. We can see why. Its light-as-air opening – those aldehydes, which lend a perfume champagne-like effervescence – is quickly succeeded by an indolic whoosh of Egyptian jasmine and Turkish rose, and fleeting impressions of peach-skin, apricot, sandalwood and musk. It finally dries down to a Turkish delight-tinged softness.

As for the name, Malle’s explanation speaks for itself: ‘In a world where life seems programmed, organised and logical, Alber sees the irrational – neglected everywhere we are and in everything we do – as essential. Beyond words, images and reason, we must let ourselves be guided by a sixth sense – by our superstitions – free from judgment and unsuppressed. We must let ourselves go. We must trust our instincts. If [Alber and I] were to create a fragrance together, we said, it would possess this mysterious element.’ 

Ropion finished his composition with Elbaz in mind and it’s a huge hit, sexy as hell and utterly addictive. The bottle’s pretty fab, too, and like the scent it’s a fusion of creative visions: Malle’s idea of a black bottle adorned with a golden eye, the symbol of superstition; the eye itself sketched out by Elbaz in a style that recalls the work of American artist Alexander Calder. 'I transformed Alber's eye from red pen on white paper to antique gold on deep black lacquer,' recalls Malle. Timeless elegance meets modern mystique...
fredericmalle.com

'Superstitious' from £158 for 50ml. Available from fredericmalle.com and libertylondon.com
Portrait of Alber Elbaz and Frédéric Malle by Brigitte Lacombe

Guerlain

The house of Guerlain has two new beautiful fragrant collections to tickle your senses. Take a deep breath...

BY AMY BRADFORD

Designed in 1908, Guerlain’s famous ‘Quadrilobé’ bottle – so named because of the shape of its stopper – has housed classic scents such as 'Jicky' and 'Shalimar'. Now it has been reinvented for a new experiment in scent inspired by synaesthesia, a spontaneous association of the senses experienced by artists including Vassily Kandinsky, Duke Ellington and Vladimir Nabokov, that can create associations between odours and colours. The new 'Colour Collection' is comprised of five fragrances from the ‘Exclusives’ collection housed in limited-edition bottles in jewel-like graduated colours. Crafted by the Brosse Glassworks, known for its creation of iconic fragrance bottles, each one is finished with a matching silk thread, painstakingly hand-tied and combed using the ‘barbichage’ technique by Guerlain’s skilled dames de table

Also new from the French fragrance house is the beautiful ‘Les Délices de Bain’ trio of shower gel, body lotion and deodorant. Heralding a more modern, minimal look for the brand, these translucent bottles contain a fresh fragrance that combines citrus notes with almond. It’s designed to harmonise with other Guerlain fragrances so you can wear layers of delicious scent.
guerlain.com

‘Colour Collection', £485 each for 125ml, exclusive to Harrods in the UK and at Guerlain boutiques worldwide. 'Les Délices de Bain', shower gel £35, perfumed body lotion, £40, for 200ml, deodorant, £34.

Hermès – Galop d'Hermès

The house of Hermès celebrates its equestrian links with a seductive new scent. Giddy up!

BY AMY BRADFORD

Galop d'Hermès 50 ml - coffret copy.jpg

Luxury French fashion house Hermès has unveiled 'Galop d’Hermès', its first major scent by French perfumer Christine Nagel – and it’s really worth getting excited about. The supremely sexy fragrance is a blend of rose, quince, saffron and leather notes, the latter inspired by the supple Doblis calfskin used to make Hermès’ fine leather goods. Among these are, of course, saddles and riding kit, and the equestrian references are followed through in the perfume’s packaging. The stirrup-shaped bottle is a reworking of a design from the company archive, presented to guests at the opening of its first New York store in 1930. Nobody knows what the original vessel held, but this time around it’s certainly a classic in the making. Oh, and the finishing touches are delightful: an orange leather strap to twine around the bottle lid, a herringbone cotton bag to keep it in, and a white box decorated with black line drawings of stirrups layered with yellow polka dots. Parfait!
hermes.com

'Galop d’Hermès', £183 for 50ml parfum