Ormaie

Meticulously crafted from the juice to bottle top, new French perfume brand Ormaie has roots in art and nature

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Family-run French scent label Ormaie has all the markings of a key perfume player, with a collection of seven fragrances made solely from natural ingredients.

Firstly, there is the beautiful blend of high quality, non-synthetic ingredients that sing through each perfume. For example, masculine ‘Le Passant’ is a sensual lavender and ambrette that reminds Ormaie co-founder Baptiste Bouygues of his father. ‘Le passant means the man passing by,’ explains Bouygues, who started Ormaie with his mother Marie-Lise Jonak in late 2018. ‘My father used to wear a beautiful lavender perfume, so it was important for me that Ormaie would have a chic lavender.’ Jonak, who has always worked in perfumes, favours the rose and sandalwood-based ‘Yvonne’, so-named after her mother who loved classic feminine perfumes. Also in the collection, ‘Les Brumes’ is a burst of fresh citrus with notes of jasmine and cedar, ‘Papier Carbone’ has essences of bergamot, vetiver and sage, and ‘28°’ is designed for hot summer nights with heady scents of mandarin, tuberose and vanilla. ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’ is an exotic fragrance featuring notes of rum, iris and vanilla while incense, sandalwood and vetiver make ‘Toï Toï Toï’ perfect for cooler spring and autumn evenings.

ABOVE: Ormaie’s sculptural eau de parfum collection, from €190 for 100ml, with geometric wooden tops inspired by modernist art
ABOVE RIGHT: Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues
BELOW FROM LEFT: Masculine scent ‘Le Passant’ and feminine ‘Yvonne’

Beyond the fragrance, it’s the design of the bottles that delivers on all cylinders from the elegant typography to the 12-sided glass vessels and geometric hand-carved wooden tops. Collaborating with Parisian creative director Jade Lombard, Bouygues’ interest in midcentury design was key to shaping the look. ‘We both love art and design,’ he says. ‘I love the sculptor Brancusi, for example. Jade loves the graphics of Jean-Paul Goude. We really wanted the bottles to be something that people could display in their living room or an atelier.’

The duo also wanted to combine great craftsmanship with natural materials. ‘The organic feel of the wood was important for us,’ says Bouygues. The caps are made from beech wood sourced from renewable forests in France. The faceted glass bottle comes from one of the finest French glassmakers and the luxe label is hot-stamped in Paris by heritage Heidelberg machines. Boxes and labels are produced by renowned fine-art print shop Imprimerie du Marais.

BELOW FROM LEFT: ‘Les Brumes’, ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’, ‘Papier Carbone’, ‘28°’ and ‘Toï Toï Toï’ eau de parfums. from €190 each for 100ml

It all adds up to an elegant, organic and wonderfully crafted perfume – that looks as nice on your dressing table as it smells on your wrist.
ormaie.paris
Ormaie fragrances are available directly from the website in Europe, €190 each for 100ml; elsewhere in the world, you’ll be directed to online stockist Barney’s, US$270 for 100ml

Portrait of Baptiste Bouygues: Vincent Desailly

The Return of Incense

When it comes to home fragrance scented candles currently hold the number one spot in the Western world. We think it's time to recalibrate and welcome incense back into our homes...

BY DEE IVA

The Fizz is a big fan of the fragrant home. From fresh floral scents in summer to warm spices and amber in winter, the right home fragrance lifts your spirits the moment you open the door.

The ubiquitous scented candle has become the go-to purchase in recent years. Every major fashion house and perfume brand has a collection of seductive scents to tempt you. The high street is also in on the game offering budget options along with that other mainstay of home fragrance the reed diffuser.

Incense sticks, however, seem to have dropped off the radar altogether but we think their return is long overdue. They can be left burning without the risk of setting fire to soft furnishings and, unlike candles, don’t leave a residue of soot on the ceiling. Their fragrance packs a mighty punch and is stronger than that from reed diffusers which have to be inverted when their scent grows weak.

Previous hippy associations may once have made them deeply unhip but now the beau monde is seeking out decidedly more upmarket versions to scent their design-savvy homes. Smart incense sticks are harder to find than candles and diffusers so we’ve tracked down five of the best to buy right now.

ABOVE: The 'Circa' incense gift set by Cinnamon Projects features a solid brass burner and disc

CINNAMON PROJECTS
New York-based Cinnamon Projects is the brainchild of Andrew Cinnamon and Charlie Stackhouse, whose cutting-edge incense sets using solid brass and semi-precious stones take luxe to a new level. Fittingly for the city that never sleeps, its five fragrances are named after different hours of the day starting at ‘7am’ with meditative black tea, clay, driftwood and marigold through to ‘2am’ with wafts of decadent cedarwood, cinnamon, honey and vetiver. New scent 'You Are Here' is an intoxicating blend of clay, immortelle, patchouli, rose, musk and sandalwood. The elegant Japanese-style incense sticks burn for 25 minutes each.
cinnamonprojects.com

Incense gift sets from US$105. Each set includes 50 incense sticks (10 from each fragrance ie '7am', '4pm', '8pm', '12am' and '2am') and a solid brass burner. The special 'Circa Minerals' set also comes with a semi-precious stone disc, with eight choices including rose quartz, black onyx and lapis lazuli. Refill packs of 25 sticks, US$30 each, are packaged in a glass tube and paper foil-stamped gift box. 'Incense Discovery Set', US$55 for 50 incense sticks (as before). 'You Are Here', US$40 for 25 incense sticks 


FORNASETTI PROFUMI
Iconic Milanese design atelier Fornasetti is a firm Fizz favourite. Its home fragrance arm Fornasetti Profumi is responsible for a wide range of stylish home scents all presented in beautifully designed ceramic holders.

TOP: Fornasetti Profumi 'Otto' incense set with 'Pistola' incense box
ABOVE: The smart 'Otto' ceramic-lidded incense boxes come in six different designs
BELOW: 'Flora di Fornasetti' incense sticks refill pack; Ceramic-lidded box designs 'Fior di Bacio' and 'Ortensia' feature the lips and eyes of Fornasetti muse Lina Cavilieri respectively

Two incense fragrances are available, each with its own set of handcrafted wooden boxes with decorated ceramic lids. ‘Otto’ is Fornasetti’s signature scent redolent with Mediterranean herbs and woody undertones. Created by master perfumer Olivier Polge, it is grand and sophisticated yet immediately relaxing. ‘Flora di Fornasetti’ is a white floral bouquet inspired by the gardens around the family house in Milan and the floral illustrations of Piero Fornasetti. Created by Emmanuel Philip, its pretty notes of jasmine, lily of the valley and tuberose are perfect for hazy summer days.
fornasetti.com

Incense boxes, including 80 sticks, £145. Refill packs of 80 sticks, £45


AWAJI 2.jpg
hg000436_alt2_1.jpg

ASTIER DE VILLATTE
Founded by Benoît Astier de Villatte and Ivan Pericoli in 1996, French homewares brand Astier de Villatte is best known for its 18th and 19th century-inspired handmade range of ceramics and glassware produced in an antique Bastille workshop in Paris. A collaboration in 2008 with Japanese fragrance company Takasago saw it branch out into the world of perfume, scented candles and incense.

The newest incense fragrance ‘Awaji’ blends jasmine, resin, driftwood and immortelle resulting in a welcoming sweet woody scent. Created by Nathalie Feisthauer and made on the Japanese island of Awaji, it joins Astier de Villatte’s existing collection of 12 incense aromas, all discreetly packaged in its distinctive illustrated blue and cream boxes.
astierdevillatte.com

TOP: Astier de Villatte's new scent 'Awaji' 
ABOVE RIGHT:
Each box contains 125 sticks for €36 


CZECH & SPEAKE 
High-end British bathroom retailer Czech & Speake is one of London’s smartest retail brands. Established in 1980 in Jermyn Street by Frank Sawkins, its name is synonymous with quality and timeless English style. Its incense collections capture two of Czech & Speake's most popular fragrances. 'No.88', Czech & Speake’s signature scent, has notes of bergamot, geranium, rose otto, vetiver and sandalwood while ‘Frankincense and Myrrh’ has exotic oriental ingredients including warm frankincense and tangy myrrh coupled with orange, lemon and basil. Both scents are available in kits and as giant sticks for outdoor use.
czechandspeake.com

Giant sticks.jpg

TOP: Incense stick kits, including 80 sticks and bone china holder, from £105. Refill packs of 20 sticks, £25 each.
ABOVE: 'Giant Outdoor Incense Sticks', £35 for 12 sticks.


Incense_Avignon_box_#41986A.jpg

COMMES DES GARCONS
Leftfield Japanese fashion house Commes des Garçons has always been the must-have brand for fashionistas looking for something off the beaten track and its range of perfumes has been as offbeat as its fashion.

CDG’s five incense aromas are inspired by spiritual teachings: ‘Avignon’ – Catholicism, ‘Ouarzazate’ – Islam, ‘Zagorsk’ – Orthodox Christianity, ‘Jaisalmer’ – Hinduism, ‘Kyoto’ – Buddhism and Shintoism. Now available as eau de toilette and scented candles, the original incense sticks are becoming harder to find. Only 'Avignon' (Roman chamomile, elemi and vanilla), 'Jaisalmer' (cinnamon, cardamom and amber), 'Ourzazate' (nutmeg, labdanum, musk and wenge) and 'Zagorsk' (pimento berries, birch wood and iris) are still available and are in limited supply. We advise you to be quick off the mark…
commesdesgarcons.com

Commes des Garçons 'Series 3' incense sticks, £35 for 40 sticks. Currently available from doverstreetmarket.com, selfridges.com and notino.co.uk

Maison Francis Kurkdjian – 'Les Maisons de la Maison'

MFK - Collection bougies Maisons de la Maison2.jpg

Five scented candles by Paris fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian inspired by homes sweet homes...

BY AMY BRADFORD

We’ve covered Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s perfumes ('Pluriel', 'À La Rose', 'Lumière Noire') several times in the past, but the Parisian nose’s new collection of scented candles has us more enraptured than ever. Entitled ‘Les Maisons de la Maison’, the range includes five fragrances, each inspired by homes that are dear to Kurkdjian.

TOP: Maison Francis Kurkdjian's five-strong new 'Les Maisons de la Maison' scented candle range. ABOVE: Candles include red-lined 'Rue des Groselliers', pink-hued 'Anouche', black-edged 'Au 17', green-lined 'La Trouverie' and yellow-rimmed 'Les Tamaris'. €70 each for 9.8 oz

'Rue des Groselliers’, for instance, represents his childhood home outside Paris with berry notes inspired by the family garden; ‘Anouche’ recaptures the smell of rose-petal jam cooking in his grandmother’s apartment; and ‘Au 17’ symbolises his current Paris home with the aromas of log fires and incense. 'La Trouverie' channels a French farmstead; 'Les Tamaris' his French West coast beach house. Each candle comes in a precious Limoges porcelain holder lined with rich colour, while boxes feature romantic illustrations by Paris artist Antonin Anzil.
franciskurkdjian.com

Paul Schütze Perfume

Powerful memories of place and time inform the perfumes of Paul Schütze. Savour the moment...

BY AMY BRADFORD

PaulSchutze_main_pic.jpg

London-based Australian artist Paul Schütze is a bit of a Renaissance man. Originally a film composer and musician, he moved into the art world in 2000, when he created a sound and film installation for the Hayward Gallery’s 'Sonic Boom' exhibition. In 2015, Schütze crafted three fragrances for the city's Sir John Soane's Museum, diffused into the historic interior during a candlelit nocturnal event.

TOP: Paul Schütze Perfume's trio of new eau de parfums including 'Behind the Rain', 'Cirebon' and 'Tears of Eros', £135 for 50ml
ABOVE RIGHT: Composer-turned-perfume creator Paul Schütze
BELOW:
Glad to be grey... the smart minimal packaging sports a flash of colour to match the coloured labels on the elegant glass bottles; purple for 'Behind the Rain', black for 'Tears Of Eros' and mandarin for 'Cirebon'

Now he’s changing tack again, launching the Paul Schütze Perfume label. He’s designed three wearable unisex perfumes by employing the same technique he uses as an artist. Each scent is an attempt to embody a memory: 'Tears of Eros' recalls an evening in Schütze’s Paris studio, when incense had been burning and a discarded clementine peel and a blooming hyacinth sat on his desk; 'Cirebon' evokes a trip to Java with the aroma of lemongrass and tamarind; and 'Behind the Rain' remembers a visit to Greece when a rainstorm released the scent of fir trees. Simple grey and clear glass packaging, teamed with graphic labels in purple, mandarin and black with silver, allow these modern masterpieces to speak for themselves.
paulschutzeperfume.com 

Paul Schütze Perfume is available now from Liberty London libertylondon.com

'Le Sablier' x Diptyque

Diptyque's new scent diffuser dispenses seductive fragrance by the hour

BY AMY BRADFORD

French fragrance brand Diptyque has added a third diffuser design to its home scent collection with the launch of ‘Le Sablier’, an elegant glass and gold vessel created in collaboration with Paris design studio Servaire & Co. Inspired by traditional hourglasses, it disperses scent through a cold-diffusion process that preserves the integrity of perfume notes. It has a 60-minute cycle and is intended to fragrance smaller spaces of up to 20 square metres, as the scent will reach an area of three to four metres around the hourglass. Just turn it over to begin again.

BELOW FROM LEFT: 'Fleur d'Oranger'; 'Baies'; '34 boulevard St-Germain'

ABOVE FROM LEFT: 'Roses'; 'Gingembre'; 'Figuier'

Diptyque has selected six scents to fill the diffuser, each one defined by a different coloured glass: Baies (smoky black), Figuier (green), Gingembre (yellow), Fleur d’Oranger (orange), 34 boulevard Saint-Germain and Roses (both clear). The perforated gold band, which recalls incense burners, lace fabrics and Diptyque’s signature oval, remains a constant. Each diffuser lasts about three months and can be refilled only once – like all the loveliest scents, it is a fleeting pleasure.
diptyqueparis.com

Diptyque 'Le Sablier', £120 each for 75ml; refill £36