Ormaie

Meticulously crafted from the juice to bottle top, new French perfume brand Ormaie has roots in art and nature

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Family-run French scent label Ormaie has all the markings of a key perfume player, with a collection of seven fragrances made solely from natural ingredients.

Firstly, there is the beautiful blend of high quality, non-synthetic ingredients that sing through each perfume. For example, masculine ‘Le Passant’ is a sensual lavender and ambrette that reminds Ormaie co-founder Baptiste Bouygues of his father. ‘Le passant means the man passing by,’ explains Bouygues, who started Ormaie with his mother Marie-Lise Jonak in late 2018. ‘My father used to wear a beautiful lavender perfume, so it was important for me that Ormaie would have a chic lavender.’ Jonak, who has always worked in perfumes, favours the rose and sandalwood-based ‘Yvonne’, so-named after her mother who loved classic feminine perfumes. Also in the collection, ‘Les Brumes’ is a burst of fresh citrus with notes of jasmine and cedar, ‘Papier Carbone’ has essences of bergamot, vetiver and sage, and ‘28°’ is designed for hot summer nights with heady scents of mandarin, tuberose and vanilla. ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’ is an exotic fragrance featuring notes of rum, iris and vanilla while incense, sandalwood and vetiver make ‘Toï Toï Toï’ perfect for cooler spring and autumn evenings.

ABOVE: Ormaie’s sculptural eau de parfum collection, from €190 for 100ml, with geometric wooden tops inspired by modernist art
ABOVE RIGHT: Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues
BELOW FROM LEFT: Masculine scent ‘Le Passant’ and feminine ‘Yvonne’

Beyond the fragrance, it’s the design of the bottles that delivers on all cylinders from the elegant typography to the 12-sided glass vessels and geometric hand-carved wooden tops. Collaborating with Parisian creative director Jade Lombard, Bouygues’ interest in midcentury design was key to shaping the look. ‘We both love art and design,’ he says. ‘I love the sculptor Brancusi, for example. Jade loves the graphics of Jean-Paul Goude. We really wanted the bottles to be something that people could display in their living room or an atelier.’

The duo also wanted to combine great craftsmanship with natural materials. ‘The organic feel of the wood was important for us,’ says Bouygues. The caps are made from beech wood sourced from renewable forests in France. The faceted glass bottle comes from one of the finest French glassmakers and the luxe label is hot-stamped in Paris by heritage Heidelberg machines. Boxes and labels are produced by renowned fine-art print shop Imprimerie du Marais.

BELOW FROM LEFT: ‘Les Brumes’, ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’, ‘Papier Carbone’, ‘28°’ and ‘Toï Toï Toï’ eau de parfums. from €190 each for 100ml

It all adds up to an elegant, organic and wonderfully crafted perfume – that looks as nice on your dressing table as it smells on your wrist.
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Ormaie fragrances are available directly from the website in Europe, €190 each for 100ml; elsewhere in the world, you’ll be directed to online stockist Barney’s, US$270 for 100ml

Portrait of Baptiste Bouygues: Vincent Desailly

Byredo hair fragrance

The trend for high-end hair fragrance shows no signs of slowing down. Now Byredo, our favourite Swedish parfumeur, has taken pole position with these elegant scents.

BY AMY BRADFORD

Stockholm scent brand Byredo continues to expand its offering of aromatic delights with a new hair perfume, available in three of its signature fragrances 'Gypsy Water', 'Bal d’Afrique' and 'Blanche'. Designed to hydrate and smooth hair as well as adding a veil of scent, it reflects the perfume industry’s increasingly adventurous mood. ‘People are more experimental today, applying fragrances in various forms,’ says Byredo founder Ben Gorham. ‘Our focus has been very much on the smells, but now we want to consider innovative ways to use perfume.’ Sounds good to us, and the sleekly minimal black and white dispensers will look a treat on our dressing table.
byredo.com 

Byredo hair fragrances, £37 each. Available in the UK exclusively from selfridges.com  Go to byredo.com for local stockists

Rennie Ellis x Kleins Perfumery

Surf, sex and shea butter… A radical new range of Australian body care products features the work of renowned photographer Rennie Ellis

BY SOPHIE DAVIES

We love brilliant beauty booty. We’re also partial to eagle-eyed photography and cleverly designed graphic packaging. Imagine our delight, then, when we spotted the new ‘Series: Rennie Ellis’ range by Kleins Perfumery, combining images from the legendary snapper’s archive with natural, Aussie-made body care products from Melbourne’s savviest independent perfume boutique.

It’s a marriage born of contrast as Rennie Ellis’s photos aren’t your average pretty pics. Australia’s most famous social-documentary photographer, Melbournian Ellis (1940-2003) is known for his shocking, sexy, in-your-face portrayal of clubbers, sunbathers and party people (think Martin Parr meets Nan Goldin down under!). His images from the Seventies and Eighties captured Australia walking on the wild side, from the drag queens of Sydney’s Kings Cross to Melbourne's sartorially striking Sharpies sub-culture.

Ellis was intrigued by “the offbeat, the erotic and the eccentric,” which was what drew Kleins’s founder Andrea Birnie to collaborate with the Rennie Ellis Photographic Archive on the innovative range. The packaging is adorned with iconic Seventies shots of surfers at Lorne on Victoria's Great Ocean Road, working girls in Sydney and lagered-up lads in Melbourne's Fitzroy, as well as beachgoers and panel vans topped with surfboards. “I was attracted to the freedom of expression, exuberance and individuality I saw in the Seventies through Rennie’s eyes,” says Birnie. “As a people we seemed less inhibited, more independent.”

ABOVE RIGHT: 'No Standing, Only Dancing' triple-milled soap 200gm, AU$9.95
ABOVE FROM LEFT: 'Sharpies' body cream 250 ml, AU$29.95; 'Surfing World' body cream 250ml, AU$29.95

 

Kleins’s collection includes body washes, body and hand creams, and triple-milled soaps, with ingredients inspired by specific Ellis images and their titles. “The 'Lorne #3' hand cream needed shea butter to be rich and hydrating, but this also captures the surf culture of an Australian summer, rich with vanilla and tangy, sweet fruits,” says Birnie. “'Fitzroy Extrovert' handwash, on the other hand, was inspired by wild scents like Australian bush mint. We also thought the subject was a bit of a geezer, possibly from Calabria. We used Calabrian Bergamot and Sea Salt to capture his essence.” The result spells mighty fine.

Tested solely on Kleins Perfumery employees, the Ellis range is the first in the Series, which will evolve to feature more art, design and creative subjects, hopefully including more Ellis's portraits from the decadent Eighties and Nineties. Bring it on...
kleinsperfumery.com.au 
Rennie Ellis: Decadent and Rennie Ellis: Decade, published by Hardie Grant Books, are available in select bookshops

ABOVE FROM LEFT: 'Fitzroy Extrovert' hand wash 50ml, AU$34.95; 'Good Vibes' hand wash 50ml, AU$34.95; 'Lorne #3' hand cream 75ml, AU$27.95; 'Back View' triple-milled soap 200gm, AU$9.95

Susanne Kaufmann

Simple, effective and powered by nature, Susanne Kaufmann's healing potions have the look good/feelgood factor totally sussed

BY AMY BRADFORD

Beautify your bathroom with Austrian spa brand Susanne Kaufmanns fabulously minimal products. The focus is on the healing powers of Alpine plants, harvested from the Bregenz Forest near Kaufmanns family-run wellness hotel, the Hotel Post, in the town of Bezau in the Vorarlberg region. As well as separate skincare collections for dry, problem and ageing skin, theres a line for men and a range of wonderfully relaxing bath oils and powders. In need of a little post-party TLC? Look no further...
susannekaufmann.com

Prices start at €12 for a 3.5g lip balm

Hey, Good Looking!

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Our beauty parlour's looking sharp (and so are we) with these stylish new skincare ranges from Kenzo and Verso

BY AMY BRADFORD

VERSO
That minimalist streak for which the Scandinavians are famous doesn’t just apply to furniture and fashion, as new Swedish beauty brand Verso amply demonstrates. Its packaging is an intelligent reflection of its anti-ageing concept: ‘verso’ is Latin for ‘reverse’ – in the sense of the rear view of a painting, a layer of new skin hidden beneath the old, or turning back time – and the monochrome boxes feature reversed graphic numerals, each of the six products in the range having its own number.

The products themselves owe their effectiveness to Retinol 8, a new form of vitamin A that’s eight times more powerful than conventional retinol, but without any of the side effects often associated with this ingredient (such as redness and dryness). We think their ability to make a lacklustre complexion radiant, translucent and youthful is truly remarkable...

Prices start at £32. Visit versoskincare.com for stockists


KENZOKI
If you've admired Kenzo’s elegant yet modern scent bottles in the past you'll love the Japanese brand’s new ‘Kenzoki’ skincare range, whose packaging is designed by renowned French art director Fabien Baron. There are two lines – a main collection featuring ombré-effect pastel colours, and a premium collection named after Luis Buñuel’s 1967 movie Belle de Jour, decorated with white lotus flowers. White lotus is also a key ingredient in the products, alongside other traditional Asian plants such as rice and ginger flower. Each product is delicately scented, reflecting Kenzo’s belief that beauty treatments should be a pleasure to use. 

ABOVE: Pretty, clean and crisp, the premium 'Belle de Jour' range. Prices from £66 
ABOVE RIGHT: We love the futuristic sci-fi feel of the main Kenzoki collection. Prices from £16.50

Kenzoki skincare is available exclusively in the UK at feelunique.com. Visit kenzoparfums.com for all other stockists