All About The Base

From dreamy perfume oils by Hermès to Aesop’s heavyweight brass oil burner that scents your home, oil-based scents should be your next fragrance obsession…

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

There’s something properly luxurious about scent that is carried not by alcohol but by oil. The silkiness of the texture and how it melts into the skin are so much more tangible than a traditional spritz application – and all the more captivating for it. It’s the bohemian mood that it puts us in. From a beauty perspective, we have been living in the age of oil for some time, but now perfume oils are also catching on as a home fragrance. Here is our pick of scented oils to bring stylish seduction to your skin or space.

Hermès ‘Hermessence’
We start with Swiss-Italian perfumer Christine Nagel, the resident nose at French luxury label Hermès since 2016, who has introduced perfume oils to the house for the very first time as part of the latest additions to the ‘Hermessence’ range. Of her five-strong Orient-inspired and layerable collection, there are two totally dreamy oil-based scents: ‘Cardamusc’ and ‘Musc Pallida’. The first is laced with fresh but spicy cardamom, the other with sensual iris. ‘I wanted to return to the origins of perfumery and immerse myself in its history,’ says Nagel of the liquid gold creations that slowly pour from similarly molten, amber glass bottles.
hermes.com 

Hermès ‘Musc Pallida’ and ‘Cardamusc’ essence de parfum, £275 each for 20ml


Aesop
Recognised for its beautiful stores, Australian skincare brand Aesop has now introduced some interiors magic to the collection. Its first Aesop Home piece, the sculptural ‘Brass Oil Burner’ was designed by Sydney-based Studio Henry Wilson, who was behind the decor of a couple of Aesop’s stores (Balmain and Crows Nest in Sydney), as well as a 2017 exhibition at Milan’s Brera showroom. Formed with an ancient wax-mould technique used to cast its solid brass shape, this weighty, one-kilogram vessel teams Aesop’s streamlined design aesthetic with functionality to disperse tailor-made essential oils. A cradle for the oil, this glowing chunk of metal was chosen not only for its looks but also for its superior heat transfer properties, tactility and warm affiliation with candle light. Just add five to 10 drops of your preferred oil blend to the oil well – choose between floral citrus ‘Anouk’, spicy citrus ‘Catherine’, minty ‘Isabelle’ or woody citrus ‘Béatrice’ – alongside a standard tea light. It doesn’t get any simpler or more appealing.
aesop.com  henrywilson.com.au

‘Brass Oil Burner’, £120; ‘Béatrice’ oil burner blend, £25 for 25ml


Lumira
Blending wanderlust-inspired concoctions, Australian fragrance and candle brand Lumira specialises in olfactory escapism with each scent a tribute to a global adventure. Founded by Sydneysider Almira Armstrong in 2013, the label follows a lifelong love of fragrance. Her tempting range of five perfume oils includes a Persian rose-scented roll-on, which combines top notes of bergamot with a dark amber base. We like. 
atelierlumira.com

Lumira ‘Persian Rose’ perfume oil, shown alongside ‘Cuban Tobacco’ and ‘Arabian Oud’ perfume oils, £39 each for 10ml


Joya
Expanding into perfume oils from candles, Frederick Bouchardy of New York label Joya loves the intimate, bespoke quality of an oil-based fragrance that changes significantly according to the wearer’s body chemistry. Handmade and poured in the Brooklyn studio, Joya’s essential oil blends come in travel roll-ons – but from a design point of view, we’re most excited about the slip cast porcelain bottles made by US ceramic artist Sarah Cihat. Did anyone mention the 22-carat gold-dipped wands? A very nice finishing touch.
joyastudio.com

Black ‘Composition No. 6’, white ‘Composition No. 1’ and dark green ‘Foxglove’ perfumes, £100 each for 75ml

Christian Louboutin x Thomas Heatherwick

The houses of Louboutin and Heatherwick have joined forces to create a new range of fragrances that simply refuses to be ignored...

BY AMY BRADFORD

London buses, gin distilleries and now scent bottles – British wünderkind Thomas Heatherwick seems determined to prove he really can turn his hand to anything with the launch of his latest design. He’s the slightly leftfield choice to create the debut scent bottle for ultra-glam French shoe designer Christian Louboutin; it turns out the unlikely pair make a dream team (although Louboutin is a trained landscape architect, so perhaps the partnership isn’t as outlandish as it first appears). They spent lengthy sessions discussing, sketching and making prototypes, trying to realise Louboutin’s notion that 'liquid is alive' and could be made to flow dynamically through a bottle. Heatherwick’s final design – a glass rectangle that splits and twists, forming a central aperture before fusing together once more – was pronounced unmakeable by glass experts. But here it is: perseverance paid off.

To fill this stupendous vessel, Louboutin created three fragrances, each coded with symbolic colours. ‘Bikini Questa Sera’ evokes the idea of sun on hot skin at dusk and the intense colours of the Egyptian desert; it contains jasmine, tuberose and sandalwood and its bottle is coloured with a wash of gold and amber. ‘Tornade Blonde’ is a bright red-rose scent with a fruity aspect from rhubarb and cassis; its bottle is flushed with garnet red. Last but absolutely not least is ‘Trouble in Heaven’, a real femme-fatale number clad in deep purple with notes of iris, patchouli, amber and tonka bean. 

ABOVE FROM LEFT: 'Bikini Questa Sera', 'Tornade Blonde', and 'Trouble In Heaven' eau de parfums
ABOVE RIGHT: Thomas Heatherwick (left) and Christian Louboutin discuss the bottle design
BELOW: Christian Louboutin tests his inaugural perfume collection

ABOVE: The supercharged metallic versions of Heatherwick's sculptural bottle for Louboutin's perfume oils

These fragrances are unabashedly raunchy and should probably only be worn by women who appreciate the more extreme of Louboutin’s stiletto fantasies; they’re basically supermodels in liquid form – the curvaceous, caramel-of-skin variety who slink down Victoria’s Secret runways wearing nothing but a few strategically placed feathers, and always look hot on their Ipanema beach hols. They’re full-on divas, and they’re fabulous: fashionistas won’t regret a penny of the £215 they’ll pay for the juice and Heatherwick’s art-glass objet. 

Finally, all three scents are also available as sensuous perfume oils that mix with the wearer's skin chemistry to create an entirely personal fragrance. Once again the bottles were designed by Heatherwick but given a beautiful iridescent metallic lustre. If you want to stand out from the crowd this Christmas, look no further...
christianlouboutin.com

'Bikini Questa Sera', 'Tornade Blonde' and 'Trouble In Heaven' eau de parfum, £215 for 80ml. Perfume oil, £245 for 30ml.

Pictures: Ali Mahdavi, Ash Reynolds

Night Veils x Byredo

Byredo's latest collection of smart scents is aimed at night owls with a penchant for intense floral fragrances

BY AMY BRADFORD

We thought that Swedish brand Byredo couldn’t get any more luxurious, but its latest creative concept proves us wrong. The ‘Night Veils’ collection is a decadent trio of perfumes inspired by three night-blooming flowers: jasmine, lily and rose. The super-concentrated scents are intended to be worn after dark, and are presented in beautiful Art Deco-style midnight-purple glass flacons to adorn your bedside table. ‘Reine de Nuit’ combines midnight rose with blackcurrant, incense and patchouli; ‘Casablanca Lily’ mimics this exotic flower with notes of wild gardenia, Indian tuberose and palisander wood; and our favourite, ‘Midnight Candy’, is a tribute to jasmine, blended with black violet, iris and vanilla. Florals don’t get more grown-up than this.
byredo.com

ABOVE FROM LEFT: 'Midnight Candy', 'Casablanca Lily', 'Reine De Nuit', £325 each for 30ml at Harrods, Liberty and Selfridges

Cire Trudon's Fragrant World

French fragrance house Cire Trudon has blown us away this month with scented matches and sensuous candles that embody refined elegance or full-on disco fluoro

BY AMY BRADFORD

There’s plenty of newness to report from cult French home scent brand Cire Trudon this month. First, its new ‘Joséphine’ candle (right), inspired by the Empress Joséphine’s passion for flowers. This delicate, summery scent combines notes of rose, jasmine, camellia and iris with kaffir lime, sandalwood and white musk.  

Ticking this season's trend boxes, the brand has also launched new variations of its pillar candles in bright colours, accented with golden cameos: choose from shocking pink, orange, fluorescent yellow or lime green. And last but not least, there’s a collection of gorgeously packaged matches scented with its classic fragrances, including the minty ‘Abd El Kader’ and the smoky ‘Ernesto’; so now you can have an extra frisson of perfumed loveliness as you light that scented candle. If the box is left slightly open, the matches will add subtle scent to a drawer, cupboard or small room too.
ciretrudon.com 

ABOVE: 'Abd El Kader', 'Bartolomé', 'Ernesto', 'Madeleine' and 'Odalisque' scented matches, €12.50 per pack
ABOVE RIGHT: 'Joséphine' scented candle, from €58
BELOW: 'Bright Yellow', 'Bright Green', 'Bright Orange' and 'Bright Pink' Cameo Pillar Candles, from €15
 

COMP Cierge Camée Jaune Eléctrique - 815 - Hi Res.jpg

Cire Trudon

Mischievous, illicit and fabulously daring, the inspiration behind Cire Trudon's newest scent brings a sense of drama to the home. A rather dangerous liaison indeed...

BY AMY BRADFORD

You can always rely on Cire Trudon to unearth fascinating nuggets of French history and use them as inspiration for decadent home scents. The heritage Parisian brand's latest candle, ‘Madeleine’, is no exception. It’s a tribute to Madeleine de Maupin, a swashbuckling 18th-century swordswoman, opera singer and crossdresser who fell foul of the law on numerous occasions. Combining leather and tobacco notes with a feminine heart of rose, jasmine and iris, it’s as flamboyant and contradictory as the woman herself.
ciretrudon.com

'Madeleine' candle, £60