Ormaie

Meticulously crafted from the juice to bottle top, new French perfume brand Ormaie has roots in art and nature

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Family-run French scent label Ormaie has all the markings of a key perfume player, with a collection of seven fragrances made solely from natural ingredients.

Firstly, there is the beautiful blend of high quality, non-synthetic ingredients that sing through each perfume. For example, masculine ‘Le Passant’ is a sensual lavender and ambrette that reminds Ormaie co-founder Baptiste Bouygues of his father. ‘Le passant means the man passing by,’ explains Bouygues, who started Ormaie with his mother Marie-Lise Jonak in late 2018. ‘My father used to wear a beautiful lavender perfume, so it was important for me that Ormaie would have a chic lavender.’ Jonak, who has always worked in perfumes, favours the rose and sandalwood-based ‘Yvonne’, so-named after her mother who loved classic feminine perfumes. Also in the collection, ‘Les Brumes’ is a burst of fresh citrus with notes of jasmine and cedar, ‘Papier Carbone’ has essences of bergamot, vetiver and sage, and ‘28°’ is designed for hot summer nights with heady scents of mandarin, tuberose and vanilla. ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’ is an exotic fragrance featuring notes of rum, iris and vanilla while incense, sandalwood and vetiver make ‘Toï Toï Toï’ perfect for cooler spring and autumn evenings.

ABOVE: Ormaie’s sculptural eau de parfum collection, from €190 for 100ml, with geometric wooden tops inspired by modernist art
ABOVE RIGHT: Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues
BELOW FROM LEFT: Masculine scent ‘Le Passant’ and feminine ‘Yvonne’

Beyond the fragrance, it’s the design of the bottles that delivers on all cylinders from the elegant typography to the 12-sided glass vessels and geometric hand-carved wooden tops. Collaborating with Parisian creative director Jade Lombard, Bouygues’ interest in midcentury design was key to shaping the look. ‘We both love art and design,’ he says. ‘I love the sculptor Brancusi, for example. Jade loves the graphics of Jean-Paul Goude. We really wanted the bottles to be something that people could display in their living room or an atelier.’

The duo also wanted to combine great craftsmanship with natural materials. ‘The organic feel of the wood was important for us,’ says Bouygues. The caps are made from beech wood sourced from renewable forests in France. The faceted glass bottle comes from one of the finest French glassmakers and the luxe label is hot-stamped in Paris by heritage Heidelberg machines. Boxes and labels are produced by renowned fine-art print shop Imprimerie du Marais.

BELOW FROM LEFT: ‘Les Brumes’, ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’, ‘Papier Carbone’, ‘28°’ and ‘Toï Toï Toï’ eau de parfums. from €190 each for 100ml

It all adds up to an elegant, organic and wonderfully crafted perfume – that looks as nice on your dressing table as it smells on your wrist.
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Ormaie fragrances are available directly from the website in Europe, €190 each for 100ml; elsewhere in the world, you’ll be directed to online stockist Barney’s, US$270 for 100ml

Portrait of Baptiste Bouygues: Vincent Desailly

Urban Apothecary

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British home fragrance brand Urban Apothecary crafts candles and diffusers that capture moods and memories

BY AMY BRADFORD

Tajinder Banwait started her home fragrance brand, Urban Apothecary, at her kitchen table, but you’d never know it from the sophisticated smoky glass packaging with minimalist labels. Each of her 10 scented candles and diffusers are hand-crafted in Britain and capture a different personal memory, from walking in woodland after rain to catching a waft of scent from a passing stranger. Highlights of the range include the autumnal ‘Bay Berry’, which combines sage-leaf and blackberry with undertones of caramel, and the sensual ‘Tuberose Petals’, which teams the creamy white flower with carnation, sandalwood and coconut.
urbanapothecarylondon.com

TOP: Urban Apothecary's 'Verbena Leaves' reed diffuser and scented candle in minimal black and white. ABOVE: 'Tuberose Petals' diffuser; 'Smoked Leather' diffuser and candle; 'Oudh Geranium', 'Green Lavender' and 'Tuberose Petals' diffusers; and 'Fig Tree' candle. BELOW: A short film about the brand inspired by monochrome, smoke and ink, capturing the darkly mysterious design identity

Candles, £30 each for 300g; reed diffusers, £35 each for 200ml

Paul Schütze Perfume

Powerful memories of place and time inform the perfumes of Paul Schütze. Savour the moment...

BY AMY BRADFORD

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London-based Australian artist Paul Schütze is a bit of a Renaissance man. Originally a film composer and musician, he moved into the art world in 2000, when he created a sound and film installation for the Hayward Gallery’s 'Sonic Boom' exhibition. In 2015, Schütze crafted three fragrances for the city's Sir John Soane's Museum, diffused into the historic interior during a candlelit nocturnal event.

TOP: Paul Schütze Perfume's trio of new eau de parfums including 'Behind the Rain', 'Cirebon' and 'Tears of Eros', £135 for 50ml
ABOVE RIGHT: Composer-turned-perfume creator Paul Schütze
BELOW:
Glad to be grey... the smart minimal packaging sports a flash of colour to match the coloured labels on the elegant glass bottles; purple for 'Behind the Rain', black for 'Tears Of Eros' and mandarin for 'Cirebon'

Now he’s changing tack again, launching the Paul Schütze Perfume label. He’s designed three wearable unisex perfumes by employing the same technique he uses as an artist. Each scent is an attempt to embody a memory: 'Tears of Eros' recalls an evening in Schütze’s Paris studio, when incense had been burning and a discarded clementine peel and a blooming hyacinth sat on his desk; 'Cirebon' evokes a trip to Java with the aroma of lemongrass and tamarind; and 'Behind the Rain' remembers a visit to Greece when a rainstorm released the scent of fir trees. Simple grey and clear glass packaging, teamed with graphic labels in purple, mandarin and black with silver, allow these modern masterpieces to speak for themselves.
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Paul Schütze Perfume is available now from Liberty London libertylondon.com

Atelier Cologne – Jasmin Angélique

Atelier Cologne's latest scent has breezed in just in time for Christmas. If Santa leaves any of these fragrant goodies in our stocking we'll be very happy bunnies indeed...

BY AMY BRADFORD

Behind every Atelier Cologne perfume, there’s a complex narrative, and the new ‘Jasmin Angélique’ is no exception. In this case, it’s all about a mysterious path to a secret garden, where two lovers meet surrounded by jasmine in bloom. Egyptian jasmine is teamed with lemon, Sichuan pepper and Angelique from Siberia, which has a cool, juniper-like aspect that may have you drawing comparisons with a tall G&T (perhaps the aforementioned lovers were in need of a little light refreshment). In the base, Brazilian tonka bean and Somalian incense have a lasting smoothness.

The range includes a treatment line of soap, shower gel and moisturising body lotion, a scented candle and fragrant cologne, all wrapped up in Paris label Atelier Cologne's stylish packaging. The blue bottles of the body lotion and body and hair shower gel chime with the brand's Venetian blue storefronts, with bold emerald labels plus signature aubergine leather bands wrapped around soaps. Atelier Cologne even offers personalised names, initials or messages on some packaging, part of the luxury trend encouraging customisation.
ateliercologne.com

ABOVE FROM LEFT: Moisturising body lotion, €50 for 265ml; Hair and body shower gel, €35 for 265ml; Soap, €18 for 200gm; Scented candle, €45 for 190gm
RIGHT: Cologne Absolue, from €70 for 30ml
Available in the UK from selfridges.com

by | n by Nendo

Japanese design studio Nendo turns typographic with its simple yet effective packaging for its own new range of cosmetics

BY AMY BRADFORD

Stellar Japanese design studio Nendo has turned its attention to the beauty world with the launch of 'by | n', a new line of body products developed with cosmetics label Beauté de Sae. Oki Sato's chic typographic design embodies Nendo’s signature pared-down style – each bottle is adorned with a large letter, cut out from the label, representing each product type ('S' for shampoo, 'B' for body wash, 'L' for body lotion and so on). Available in two fresh fragrances, the cream label denotes a floral citrus scent while the blue label indicates redolent citrus herbs.
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'by | n' from JPY 2,052. Available exclusively from Seibu department stores sogu-seibu.jp
Pictures: Akihiro Yoshida