Ormaie

Meticulously crafted from the juice to bottle top, new French perfume brand Ormaie has roots in art and nature

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Family-run French scent label Ormaie has all the markings of a key perfume player, with a collection of seven fragrances made solely from natural ingredients.

Firstly, there is the beautiful blend of high quality, non-synthetic ingredients that sing through each perfume. For example, masculine ‘Le Passant’ is a sensual lavender and ambrette that reminds Ormaie co-founder Baptiste Bouygues of his father. ‘Le passant means the man passing by,’ explains Bouygues, who started Ormaie with his mother Marie-Lise Jonak in late 2018. ‘My father used to wear a beautiful lavender perfume, so it was important for me that Ormaie would have a chic lavender.’ Jonak, who has always worked in perfumes, favours the rose and sandalwood-based ‘Yvonne’, so-named after her mother who loved classic feminine perfumes. Also in the collection, ‘Les Brumes’ is a burst of fresh citrus with notes of jasmine and cedar, ‘Papier Carbone’ has essences of bergamot, vetiver and sage, and ‘28°’ is designed for hot summer nights with heady scents of mandarin, tuberose and vanilla. ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’ is an exotic fragrance featuring notes of rum, iris and vanilla while incense, sandalwood and vetiver make ‘Toï Toï Toï’ perfect for cooler spring and autumn evenings.

ABOVE: Ormaie’s sculptural eau de parfum collection, from €190 for 100ml, with geometric wooden tops inspired by modernist art
ABOVE RIGHT: Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues
BELOW FROM LEFT: Masculine scent ‘Le Passant’ and feminine ‘Yvonne’

Beyond the fragrance, it’s the design of the bottles that delivers on all cylinders from the elegant typography to the 12-sided glass vessels and geometric hand-carved wooden tops. Collaborating with Parisian creative director Jade Lombard, Bouygues’ interest in midcentury design was key to shaping the look. ‘We both love art and design,’ he says. ‘I love the sculptor Brancusi, for example. Jade loves the graphics of Jean-Paul Goude. We really wanted the bottles to be something that people could display in their living room or an atelier.’

The duo also wanted to combine great craftsmanship with natural materials. ‘The organic feel of the wood was important for us,’ says Bouygues. The caps are made from beech wood sourced from renewable forests in France. The faceted glass bottle comes from one of the finest French glassmakers and the luxe label is hot-stamped in Paris by heritage Heidelberg machines. Boxes and labels are produced by renowned fine-art print shop Imprimerie du Marais.

BELOW FROM LEFT: ‘Les Brumes’, ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’, ‘Papier Carbone’, ‘28°’ and ‘Toï Toï Toï’ eau de parfums. from €190 each for 100ml

It all adds up to an elegant, organic and wonderfully crafted perfume – that looks as nice on your dressing table as it smells on your wrist.
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Ormaie fragrances are available directly from the website in Europe, €190 each for 100ml; elsewhere in the world, you’ll be directed to online stockist Barney’s, US$270 for 100ml

Portrait of Baptiste Bouygues: Vincent Desailly

Aman Skincare

For a beauty encounter of a holistic kind, draw your palms together in your heart space for Aman Skincare – a new skincare and body line from luxury travel group Aman

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Aman is renowned for impeccably designed resorts all over the world, so it’s perhaps surprising that the luxury hotel group hasn’t made a foray into a spa collection before. Now, though, you can enjoy a little Aman magic at home thanks to the launch of new holistic range Aman Skincare – while upping your bathroom shelfie ante with the sake bottle-inspired designs by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma

Recently renowned for the cliff-like V&A Dundee museum building in Scotland, Kengo’s intention with this beauty brief was to capture the essence of Aman in physical form. The curves of the handsomely shaped bottles fit beautifully in the hand and it’s a sensorial experience – from the smoothness of touch to the appearance of the natural wood grain – and, of course, the sublime scents and star performance of the unisex products inside.

Categorised into three skincare ‘pathways’ – Grounding, Nourishing and Purifying – the sustainable collection takes its cue from nature and ancient wellness traditions, with ingredients influenced by the various Aman resort destinations.

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Aman Skincare features 30 all-natural products for the face, body and bath, with evocative names such as ‘Jade Mask Concentrate’ and ‘Sacred Heart Balm’, the latter a mood-boosting, antioxidant-rich balm combining hydrating murumuru seed, shea and cupuaçu butters with uplifting tuberose, frangipani and vanilla oils. It’s all extremely transportative – and with prices starting at £40, nicely aspirational too. 
aman.com kkaa.co.jp

Abel – 'Vita Odor'

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Design the world's best natural perfume? Amsterdam-born scent house Abel was ready, willing and able

BY AMY BRADFORD

Is it possible to create a completely natural perfume that’s as sophisticated as conventional scents made using synthetic ingredients? That was the question New Zealand former winemaker Frances Shoemack (top right) asked herself when she decided to devise Abel’s ‘Vita Odor’ (Living Fragrance) collection.

After seeing a film of Isaac Sinclair (below right) – the only master perfumer ever to hail from Australasia – talking about the similarities between wine-making and perfumery, she enlisted the Auckland-born, Sao Paulo-based talent as her creative partner. Together, the pair have crafted five extraordinary scents that take the concept of natural fragrance beyond the realms of hippiedom and elevate it to the status of haute parfumerie (the understated bottle design amplifies the effect).

BELOW: Abel's collection of five 'Vita Odor' eau de parfums combine 21st-century technology with fine natural ingredients. From left, 'Grey Labdanum', 'Cobalt Amber', 'Golden Neroli', 'White Vetiver' and 'Red Santal', from £45 each for 15ml; £98 for 50ml

All have short formulas that showcase the fine quality of the ingredients used: 'Cobalt Amber' is a delicious gourmand fragrance with cardamom, cacao and tonka bean, while 'Red Santal' captures the spiciness of clove and ginger and the milky freshness of sandalwood. Our favourite, though, is 'Golden Neroli' (left), a luscious honeyed floral with a top note of matcha tea. The genius of the perfumer lies in using isolates – fragrance notes extracted from natural ingredients using fractional distillation – that stand in for synthetic aromas. For example, an isolate from the ambrette seed smells like deer musk, now banned in its natural form and toxic in synthetic imitations. This new, natural musk note enables the perfumes to last all day on the skin. Clever, non?

Minimal packaging design (above) for the unisex 'Vita Odor' collection is equally chic, created in collaboration with Amsterdam's Atelier Joachim Baan, with subtle glimpses of colour on white boxes tying in with each scent. The sleek, modern bottles pay homage to Abel's commitment to natural materials, and are an exercise in low-key luxury.
abelodor.com


Abel's 'Vita Odor' range is available in the UK from roullierwhite.com

Neom Organics

If you're having a hectic day or just fancy a little energy boost, Neom Organics' therapeutic essential oils are just what you need to reboot your mood. Check out these little beauties for peace of mind on the go...

BY AMY BRADFORD

We can never say no to a chic mini travel product – or to an affordable dose of luxury. So Neom Organics’ new natural ‘Essential Wellbeing’ range pleases us greatly. There are four kits to choose from – one to banish stress, one to help you sleep, one to boost energy and one to bestow happiness – including products such as bath and shower oils, pillow mists and roll-on scents for pulse points. All feature London brand Neom’s bespoke, highly concentrated essential oil blends to maximize wellbeing benefits. The ‘Perfect Night’s Sleep’ pillow mist from the ‘Scent to Sleep’ kit really lives up to its name. 
On the design front, Neom's pretty packaging uses soft painterly bursts of mood-enhancing colours as an illustrative counterpoint to the label's classic typography. Hmm, we think we'll have one of each please...
neomorganics.com 

'Essential Wellbeing Kit', £20 each

MUJI skincare

Simple, functional but oh so smart, Japanese high-street brand MUJI's new skincare range ticks all our design boxes

BY AMY BRADFORD

You’ve raved over their functional furniture and kitchenware, been saved on innumerable trips abroad by their mini travel bottles for bath products, and snapped up Naoto Fukasawa’s cult waterproof CD player for your shower. Now, meet your new MUJI obsession: its first skincare range. Like everything else in the Japanese utility store, it’s unfussy and functional, with simple amber and white packaging and natural formulas. The latter are water based, but it’s not just any old water – the brand has striven to find ‘the best pure water in the world’, and discovered it deep in the caves of Kamaishi in north-eastern Japan. It’s extremely gentle on the skin, thanks to its alkaline pH of 8.8 – similar to human tears. Turning Japanese? We really think so...
muji.com

ABOVE FROM LEFT: 'High Moisture All In One Essence', £11.95 for 100gm; 'Sensitive Skin All In One Essence', £7.95 for 100gm; 'Moisturising Milk - Moisture', £7.95 for 200ml
ABOVE RIGHT FROM LEFT: 'Moist Essence Lotion', £14.95 for 200ml; 'Light Toning Water', £4.95 for 200ml

ABOVE FROM TOP: 'High Moisturising Cream', £11.95 for 45gm; 'Moisturising Cream', £9.95 for 50gm

Muji skincare, from £7.95 for a cream cleanser. Available now in store exclusively at Selfridges and in selected Muji stores from September