Ormaie

Meticulously crafted from the juice to bottle top, new French perfume brand Ormaie has roots in art and nature

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

Family-run French scent label Ormaie has all the markings of a key perfume player, with a collection of seven fragrances made solely from natural ingredients.

Firstly, there is the beautiful blend of high quality, non-synthetic ingredients that sing through each perfume. For example, masculine ‘Le Passant’ is a sensual lavender and ambrette that reminds Ormaie co-founder Baptiste Bouygues of his father. ‘Le passant means the man passing by,’ explains Bouygues, who started Ormaie with his mother Marie-Lise Jonak in late 2018. ‘My father used to wear a beautiful lavender perfume, so it was important for me that Ormaie would have a chic lavender.’ Jonak, who has always worked in perfumes, favours the rose and sandalwood-based ‘Yvonne’, so-named after her mother who loved classic feminine perfumes. Also in the collection, ‘Les Brumes’ is a burst of fresh citrus with notes of jasmine and cedar, ‘Papier Carbone’ has essences of bergamot, vetiver and sage, and ‘28°’ is designed for hot summer nights with heady scents of mandarin, tuberose and vanilla. ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’ is an exotic fragrance featuring notes of rum, iris and vanilla while incense, sandalwood and vetiver make ‘Toï Toï Toï’ perfect for cooler spring and autumn evenings.

ABOVE: Ormaie’s sculptural eau de parfum collection, from €190 for 100ml, with geometric wooden tops inspired by modernist art
ABOVE RIGHT: Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues
BELOW FROM LEFT: Masculine scent ‘Le Passant’ and feminine ‘Yvonne’

Beyond the fragrance, it’s the design of the bottles that delivers on all cylinders from the elegant typography to the 12-sided glass vessels and geometric hand-carved wooden tops. Collaborating with Parisian creative director Jade Lombard, Bouygues’ interest in midcentury design was key to shaping the look. ‘We both love art and design,’ he says. ‘I love the sculptor Brancusi, for example. Jade loves the graphics of Jean-Paul Goude. We really wanted the bottles to be something that people could display in their living room or an atelier.’

The duo also wanted to combine great craftsmanship with natural materials. ‘The organic feel of the wood was important for us,’ says Bouygues. The caps are made from beech wood sourced from renewable forests in France. The faceted glass bottle comes from one of the finest French glassmakers and the luxe label is hot-stamped in Paris by heritage Heidelberg machines. Boxes and labels are produced by renowned fine-art print shop Imprimerie du Marais.

BELOW FROM LEFT: ‘Les Brumes’, ‘L’Ivrée Bleue’, ‘Papier Carbone’, ‘28°’ and ‘Toï Toï Toï’ eau de parfums. from €190 each for 100ml

It all adds up to an elegant, organic and wonderfully crafted perfume – that looks as nice on your dressing table as it smells on your wrist.
ormaie.paris
Ormaie fragrances are available directly from the website in Europe, €190 each for 100ml; elsewhere in the world, you’ll be directed to online stockist Barney’s, US$270 for 100ml

Portrait of Baptiste Bouygues: Vincent Desailly

Byredo – 'Unnamed'

Created in 2016 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Swedish fragrance house Byredo, the limited edition ‘Unnamed’ perfume is back. Enjoy it while you can…

BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

The paradigms of perfume are shifting. It’s less cool to buy into a campaign image. It’s cooler to buy into niche. It’s extra cool to buy into a perfume when you don’t even know its smell. Or at least you do, but you have to identify it for yourself.

Always ahead of the curve, Swedish cult brand Byredo has relaunched its limited edition fragrance ‘Unnamed’. Back by popular demand, the perfume is literally unnamed – the point being to create olfactory associations of your own. Scent is subjective, after all, so this allows for your own thoughtful interpretations to flex their might. Minus ingredient cues, minus advertising, simply how does it make you feel?

Clever to the core, Byredo founder and creative director Ben Gorham has left the white label of ‘Unnamed’ blank, so you can call it whatever you like. The scent comes with a set of chic black transfers, including the letters of the alphabet, numbers, punctuation marks, symbols and signs, so you can add your own monogrammed title or just handwrite a name in the space. This is hyper-personalisation, courageous, creative and open to ideas. 

‘The names of the Byredo fragrances often describe the origin of an idea, a thought that leads to a brief presented to the perfumer,’ explains Gorham. ‘With fragrance being completely subjective these names spark the imagination of the perfumer and finally the customer. They each experience the fragrance even before they smell the ingredients in the bottle. We still find it fascinating that people interpret our fragrances in so many ways.’

Gorham continues: ‘To celebrate Byredo’s 10-year anniversary we created an unnamed fragrance that allows our customers to choose a name meaningful to them, and customise the label of their bottle. This is our way of celebrating the notion and uniqueness of smell and an opportunity to thank our partners, retailers and staff as well as the loyal customers who have supported and grown Byredo to what it is today.’

For people interested in the different messages it is possible to get across through perfume, and the effect it has on how we live and think, this concept is for you. For me, this fragrance is all violets and soft suede. I just need to work on the name…
byredo.co.uk

‘Unnamed’ eau de parfum re-edition, £160 for 100ml, is available now from select retailers and byredo.co.uk

Pour Toujours

Martine Denisot's elegant range of fragrances, Pour Toujours, is the result of a close encounter with the House of Chanel...

BY AMY BRADFORD

Martine Denisot was head of communication at the National Irish Tourist Board for 25 years before a chance meeting with the great Chanel nose Jacques Polge catapulted her into the world of perfumery. Polge allowed her privileged access to the Chanel laboratories, where she studied her craft for a year. More training followed, but Denisot has retained an appealingly instinctive approach to composing scent that’s tangible in her new brand, Pour Toujours (For All Time). She loves cocooning fragrances that seek to emulate in scent what the ‘Slow Movement’ has achieved in cookery.

ABOVE FROM LEFT: 'Bootylicious', 'Graines', 'Pyrus', 'Boule De Gomme', 'Tudo Bem!', 'Khamsin', €160 for 100ml eau de parfum. Also available in the UK from liberty.co.uk
ABOVE RIGHT: Martine Denisot, founder of Pour Toujours

Denisot's collection of six fragrances includes ‘Boule de Gomme’, a gourmand delight that recreates the childhood memory of old-fashioned gumdrops, with notes of orange blossom and lavender; ‘Bootylicious’, whose fleshy quince note recalls fruit from the gardens in her native Berry region; and our favourite, ‘Khamsin’. This honeyed scent with notes of jasmine, hay and beeswax was inspired by a hot wind that blows in Middle Eastern countries.

The packaging design is beautiful, too, with white porcelain stoppers in tribute to Denisot’s grandparents, who were porcelain makers in Limoges (their sleek, contemporary forms, by Philippe Di Méo, were made to be lifted and cradled between two fingers, in a precise, pleasing gesture). The scroll motif, based on the Möbius strip, is a symbol of infinity with no beginning and no end. Pour toujours...
pour-toujours-parfums.paris

IIUVO

IIUVO's understated barely-there packaging houses three unique fragrances for the modern home

BY AMY BRADFORD

Leo Gibbon and Tomi Ahmed are two young London boys who radiate urban cool. Both have backgrounds in luxury fashion (think Dover Street Market and Comme des Garçons) and they bonded over shared passions for cinema and hip hop. So they’re perhaps not an obvious duo to start a candle brand. But new label IIUVO, under which they’ve launched three perfumed candles, is as unusual as they are.

The brand name comes from the Latin word ‘iuvo’, meaning ‘to delight or gratify’, while the scents’ inspirations are quirky and personal. ‘Ajon’ is a floral bouquet inspired by Leo’s mother’s floristry business, but named after a Parisian florist with one letter missing from its shop front; ‘Emmie’ is an intensely green galbanum-and-moss blend inspired by Leo’s Irish grandmother’s garden; and ‘Woodgrain’ is so called not because of its woody notes, but because it recalls the wood-clad interior of a vintage Cadillac (it actually contains a mix of cardamom, nutmeg, patchouli and amber). The pair’s minimal packaging design is billed as an ‘uncomplicated’ choice ‘to let the product speak for itself’. We approve!
iiuvo.com

'Ajon', 'Emmie' and 'Woodgrain' scented candles, £50 each for 190gm